roadside austria

moleskins were made for times like this ...

The greatest artists and thinkers are said to have used one; Van Gogh, Picasso and Hemingway. I'm not for one minute comparing myself to the greatest writers of all time, but certainly if there was ever a time which was worthy of my scribe it has to be a time like this.

Sitting here in Slovenia, at the top of a mountain and feeling on top of the world it feels as though life could not hold more if it tried.

nectar of the gods

A perfect example of not having researched our trip before jumping in the car. In Slovenia we knew not a single word, not even 'hello', 'please' or 'thank you'. A finely tuned repertoire of the local produce certainly fell well beyond our grasp. So, on a trip to the supermarket Woz selected a drink for himself, with no idea what was in it. He later showed Marko, and said, "I don't know what it is and I don't want to know".

Guesses anyone? No cheating!

lego, the universal entertainer ... thanks marko

marko

At some point during our stay in Austria we received an invitation from Marko, a friend of Andi's and a new friend of ours, who lives in Slovenia, to stay with him. Having met Marko last time Andi was in London we were keen to meet up with him again, particularly on his home turf. So, after leaving Andi, Woz and I drove to Maribor which is just over the border in Slovenia. Marko, who has only spent a small amount of time with us, gave us his address with instructions to park and then text him so that he could come and give us the keys to his apartment. We were blown away by his generosity and the trust he afforded us. Not only that he had taken the time to email us loads of information on Maribor so that our stay there was so effortless.

His apartment was quite surreal, in a dilapidated block which looked quite dubious from the outside. Inside, his apartment was spacious and oozing with character. We'd have moved in permanently had he given us opportunity!

Although he had a busy work schedule the three days we were there he made time to meet with us after work and today we had a precious few hours with him enjoying icecream and a coffee in the afternoon sun. Like Andi, Marko too had quite a way with the locals in his home town of Maribor. From casual glances and a nod of the head exchanged with familiar passers by to handshakes and inpromptu conversations. We felt privelaged to be in his company especially given his frantic work life!

There is no better way to see a city than in the company of a true local and Marko is just that. He knew the history of the city and seemed to have a story for every corner we came across. He knew where to buy the best home-made cake, sample the best icecream and the finest seafood.

It was fascinating to talk with him and we learned so much. We look forward to repaying him. Perhaps in Libya?! If we ever get our visas of course!

Äpfel

suite number 3

das pillow fight hotel

below our feet

are we there yet?

Český krumlov

Our introduction to the Czech Republic was an ever increasingly back road landscape which started in Austria and blended into the Czech Republic, the only indication we'd crossed the border being the unrecognisable text on occasional road signs. We drove for what seemed like forever before seeing any trace of civilisation, instead seeing more and more tracks designated for push bikes only. Finally we reached a road which lined a farm's paddocks, then after a long while, we saw some powerlines, then after a very long while we saw another person!

By late afternoon we had made our way to Český Krumlov which was our destination of choice (recommended once again by Andi). A beautiful town with lovingly ornate buildings built into the rock face, cobblestoned streets and a river flowing through it's heart.

necessity is the mother of invention ... and adventure!

In my last post I mentioned we were going on an afternoon bike ride with some of Andi's friends. What I wasn't sure of then was how we were going to get Nate on a bike given that we had no child's seat. Of course I had underestimated the creative genius of both my husband and Andi. I'm not sure who more appropriately suits the title of 'Macgyver'. Anyway, as you can see by the photo, Nate enjoyed the ride strapped into his car seat.

It was a beautiful ride - flat (which suited me perfectly!) and on a smooth bike path all the way along the Danube from Ottensheim to a lake where we swam and then to the beer garden for an afternoon break (from doing nothing!). On the way home we stopped at the beach* where Andi and Nate took a swim, the rest of us retiring on the sand. Loved every minute.

*When I say 'beach' I mean river with a sand bed next to it. Those who passed Geography will know that Austria is bordered entirely by other countries and has no coastline to speak of.

pre-cider

i never wanted to be a lumberjack ... I always wanted to be a vegetarian

We've been known to do some pretty out of character things in the name of travelling. Stepping inside dark huts in Africa (home of the bird eating spider so they say) without so much as a can of Mortein, drinking cups of tea made by villagers - knowing full well it could be a matter of hours before we could be vomiting it all up again if the water was not fully boiled, and sampling random dishes on a menu when no english translation was available, however our latest was a stretch for me to say the least.

Three words. Pig. Fat. Bread.

Highly recommended by the very persuasive and charming Andi, we spent a few lazy hours on Saturday afternoon in a beer garden in an orchard where cider and the famous Pig Fat Bread were served.

Pig Fat Bread as it turns out is a thick slice of rye bread, lathered, nay, smothered with a helping of pig fat, sprinkled with finely cut raw onion and some herbs. An explosive combination particuarly when coupled with a pint of locally brewed cider!

andi's container

Andi's latest project. A shipping container planted smack bang in the middle of Linz. At night it opens up while 'King of the Road' blares from it's speakers. By day, a 24 ct gold shipping container. By night, a bar and meeting place for the in crowd, downtown Linz. Very, very cool.

i heart austria

Almost exactly two years ago Woz and I celebrated our 5th wedding anniversary with a trip to Austria, specifically to stay in dasparkhotel, in Ottensheim, Linz. You may remember we absolutely loved it, and particularly loved meeting it's creator, Andreas Strauss, who we are now privileged to call our friend. So, when in Europe, how could we possibly miss an opportunity for another stay and to once again enjoy Andy's hospitality?

Today is our third day here now and the days are becoming increasingly laid back but always with a hint of adventure, and of course, with Andy around, an abundance of new friends to meet.

Yesterday we spent the afternoon in Ottensheim, making our way down to the Farmers Market where we sampled the local wine, bread and sweet delights. Andy introduced us to many of his neighbours, including the Mayor who we had a wine with on the bank of the Danube.

Later that evening we borrowed a friend's boat and took a speedy trip down the Danube to Linz where we met up with more friend's for dinner, some of which will join us this afternoon for a meal and then a bike ride to another local town.

Oh yes, we love it here, and it's wonderfully, wonderfully warm. Life is good.

crazy boat ride up the danube ... "adventure!"

We took these photos on the way to dinner where we took the ride of our lives from Ottensheim to Linz. Coming home we didn't have a light on the boat. Hit the bank once but luckily nothing else. Life on the edge with Andi. Crazy Austrians!

andi samples some austrian wine

prost!

dip