this one was written out at sea

Given our last choice of home it might strike you as a little odd to learn that I have a genuine fear of being on water at night. For this reason I will never go on a cruise regardless of the on deck swimming pools and open buffet. I did however, in a moment of weakness, agree to take the ferry across the Adriatic Sea from Split in Croatia to Ancona, Italy. An overnight trip, leaving Split at 9pm and getting in the following morning at 7am.

So, now I write to you, with the coast of Croatia long since vanished in the night, as I sit in our 2 berth cabin, deep in the belly of the ship. I am trying to think of everything but this fact so as not to let my imagination get the better of me but I'm afraid I have watched 'Titanic' too many times and I am fighting a losing battle.

at long last!

Finally we have good news. The visas have been approved - all three of them!

We received an email this afternoon. It has certainly put our minds at rest as we had been continually running through possible scenarios in our thoughts and conversations, should we return to London and find ourselves without a visa for Nate. We feel as though we can finally look forward to the future and can't wait to set up home again after being in a temporary frame of mind for so long. We're now sorting out what is required to get us there (visas stamped in passports etc.) and estimate we'll be 'deployed' as they say, by the end of the month!

somewhere we never thought we'd see

On our last day in Croatia, having already spent a few hours at the beach, Woz and I decided to take the short drive across the border into Bosnia & Herzegovina, to a lake which on the map looked fantastic, and possibly a venue for our afternoon swim. The drive there was amazing, our first diversion from the coast of Croatia and it seemed to get hotter, rockier and much, much, higher as we drove up into the mountains.

On arriving at the border we were denied entry as we weren't able to produce a green piece of paper which had something to do with motor insurance. We were told that we could buy this at another border control a few kilometres along the border so we headed that way. At the second border crossing our passports were checked three times but we were not asked to show our little green piece of paper. On the third check we were waved through and we were in! A little nerve-racking!

Driving to Bosnia was a spur of the moment decision and so we drove there without having researched whether as an Australian I would need a visa but on the border decided not to draw their attention to the matter. It seemed like the kind of country where if you asked if you were to pay a visa they would say yes and take a hansome sum for the privilege. So, no questions were asked and we were through. We spent only a few hours there, driving around, only getting out to take photographs. The lake was man-made, in a valley, surrounded by mountains, with a few villages scattered around it. Despite the heat, we saw not one person bathing, or even spending any time near the water. It was eerily quiet in the villages around the lake, with us only seeing other drivers and the occasional cyclist. After a few hours we headed back to Croatia to spend a few more hours at the beach before we headed towards Italy.

you can take a girl to croatia ....

Told you I wouldn't look Clairzy.

croatian coastline

getting to know you

Driving through Croatia the first thing that slaps you in the face is the stunning coastline and rugged mountains towering overhead. Having come from Germany however where every rural village is pristine, we were shocked at the state of the houses running along the coast. We couldn't tell if the obvious decay was due to past unrest, negligence or purely a different perception of what is aesthetically pleasing. Most were concrete boxes, a few rendered or painted a bright colour but the majority seemed to be dull and uninspiring. Hard to imagine when the view out the window of almost all of those houses would have been second to none. We had to take off our western-tinted-glasses to appreciate anything other than natural beauty. It was spectacularly hot in Croatia, 37 degrees on one day we were there. Perfect for swimming - and we did, every day.

border control

Entering Croatia we had our passports checked for the first time. We'd already passed through six countries without anyone so much as glancing at them. This of course held up our entry as each car slowed and one by one had their documents checked. This gave me more time to dwell on the decision we'd made to visit Croatia, despite my promise not to without Claire. We passed through without a hitch but my sense of betrayal was overwhelming.

the end is nigh

Aaaagghhh! My world has come to an end! Blogger have told me that in order to continue uploading photos to my blog I have to buy image space though Picassa. Not sure how much this costs but Croatia wont even let me upload the program to check! I knew we shouldn't have come to Croatia!

So, until I can sort out the program we'll have to just upload text and then photos when we get home. Sigh ...

Trust us. It's spectacular here.

i still haven't found what i'm looking for

Piran. Technically Slovenia but crammed so tightly on the coastline in between Italy and Croatia that it's hard to know which country you're in.

We arrived in the evening and found a town buzzing with excitement. It was a beautifully warm night and as we approached the main square on foot we heard a lone guitarist, deep in song with a crowd stopping number, 'I still haven't found what I'm looking for' by U2. He had everyone in the surrounding restaurants and square watching him earnestly, with most singing on. Back in the day Karen and I used to sing that song together and I noticed that the guitarist, although clearly talented, was distinctly lacking in some solid harmonies. If only you were there Kaz and we could have backed him up with some killers.

Woz and I got some takeaway calzone and sat out the square while Nate ran madly around the square with the other children around. A beautiful night we wont forget.

promise not to look

Claire and I have been fortunate enough to travel together on a number of occasions; to Sardinia, Venice, Paris and of course hanging out in London on more than one occasion. Good times.

A little while ago whilst chatting with Claire I made a flippant remark that we would have to continue travelling together until we were old and grey. From that suggestion a plan was hatched and we made a pact to visit Croatia together - a destination we'd both long since dreamt of visiting.

I picture Claire now, reading this entry from her work computer, with plans of a student life for the years ahead and the poverty that so often comes with it. As each day passes I imagine her reading each new post on our blog with growing dismay, the travel bug in her niggling away without hope of being fed, for the moment anyway.

To add salt to the wound, we have made plans for our return to London ... via Croatia. Looking at the map it seems the logical way to travel rather than back track along highways already traversed.

So a new destination for Claire and I must be found, one suitably exotic to speed up the forgiveness process that Claire will undoubtedly be undertaking. Suggestions anyone?

pinch yourself

It's hard to believe we've only been gone a week and a half. It seems as though a lifetime has been packed into that time. We've crossed eight countries in as many days and still no call from Libya. Amazing to think that we may never have even made it as far as Dover!

When we meet people and they ask us where we're from, our answer, in short, is "Australia". Of course we are. Our accent alone is testament to the fact. But when their eyes widen and they marvel at how far we've come the story changes. "Actually we've only travelled from London. We live there .... well, we used to".

After just over a week away with our life packed up in London and a new destination in mind we feel more like world citizens than anything else. Life is just too transient at the moment to feel a kinship to anywhere but where we are right here, right now.

And right now we are in Italy. For a few hours. We've come from Slovenia this morning, to Italy for lunch and then we'll head back to Slovenia tonight. So, in Italy, here I sit. A few precious hours to myself while Woz and Nate entertain themselves. I am sitting in a bar on a gorgeous street where I have wireless internet, good coffee and a contented soul.

Yep, it's moments like these you pinch yourself to check if what you are experiencing is real - and it is. It all feels so very undeserved. We spend each day so thankful for each moment and for another incredible experience underfoot, wondering what tomorrow will hold.

morning views

the landy, and our campsite, just up the hill

the lake down the hill from our tent

this one was written fireside

Okay so I'm not a huge fan of camping. I grew up going on camping holidays for the most part, so for me the novelty has sort of worn off. No, I long for swanky hotel suites with hot water, soft downy pillows and cable TV. Camping is not for me. Woz however, loves it.

Our first night away we camped, in Belgium. It was a lovely campsite, I'll give it that. In the city without too much of a city feel. But it was wet, cold, and we set up our tent in the dark, drew every breath to blow up our air mattress with our own lungs and by the time we finally went to bed we were so exhausted we barely noticed the buoyant like feel of an air-mattress shared by three people. It wasn't a great night, and in the morning I made Woz promise to alternate between B & B's and camping.

Now, a week and a half later, we are camping again and it couldn't be further from our first night.

We're in a National forest in Slovenia (don't have my map with me but will tell you which one at a later stage!). Our tent is in the middle of a gorgeous and secluded forest. Just a little down the hill is the lake where there are more campers. Nate is fast asleep in the tent, having willingly laid down on his own little mattress, tucked in and curled up with a bottle, and Woz and I are about to tuck in to the buttered sweetcorn which has been roasting in the coals of our campfire. I could start to like camping after all.

Post script: Shortly after I finished writing this we discovered our corn had been scorched within an inch of it's life. On top of that, over night there was torrential rain, deafening thunder and a light show to match. The first rain we've had in over a week. Not quite so idyllic after all. Still, it was nice to be in Slovenia, in the woods.

roadside slovenia

view from the castle in bled

weinidylle dreisiebner

On Andi's recommendation we visited a wine region in Austria close to the Slovenian border. We'd already sampled some of the wine at the Farmers Market in Ottensheim and so when we were looking for a place to stay the choice was obvious - Weinidylle Dreisiebner. Spectacular in every way and the perfect touch of luxury to celebrate our 7th wedding anniversary.

countryside perfection

a working day for most